BALSAMICO DINNERS
Wednesday and Thursday
May 25 and 26, 2005
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When Chef Paul Bertolli began making traditional balsamic vinegar (the first in America), he looked for a business model that could support his effort. Measured in time and expense, traditional balsamico is the slowest and possibly most dear food in the world. He decided instead to make it only for his family and his friends' families. Above all, the making of balsamico is a labor of love that exists, for the most part, outside of commerce. As Chef Paul Canales* puts it, "It's absurd in a beautiful way."
For the first time we'll be able to offer the Bertolli balsamico, now eight years old, for tasting. Chef Canales' menu will use balsamico at all its stages: from saba, or cooked must, and young balsamico in braises and to spike sauces, to very old Italian balsamico applied with food as its canvas or drunk alone as a digestivo.
This year's dinners will feature traditionally made young vinegars from Chalk Hill Acetaia (Healdsburg), Old Monticello Organic Farm (New Mexico), Pier Luigi Sereni (Modena), and Violi (Reggio Emilia--from 1650, 1855, 1950, and 1970).
Dishes Made with Young balsamico
Asparagus alla fiorentina with Brown Butter with balsamico
Charcoal-Grilled Black Cod Marinated in saba with Watercress
Bollito of Paine Farm Pigeon Stuffed with cotechino Sausage, Sauce pevra
Willis Farm Pork Belly Braised in saba with New Garlic and Potato Puree
Trompetti with Pork Cracklings, pancetta, and balsamico
Northern Halibut with Leeks and balsamico Sauce
Duck Leg Braised with Cherries Roasted in saba, Polenta integrale
Garden Lettuces with balsamico, McEvoy Olive oil, and Sea Salt
Dishes for Middle Aged balsamico
Passatelli of Oxtails and Beets
Arucana Egg in carrozza with Cardoons, Celery, Walnuts, and prosciutto
Tortelloni of Roast Guinea Hen and Morel Mushrooms
Potato gnocchi with Parmesan fonduta
Antipasto of Smoked and Preserved Willis Farm Pork with Wild Arugula,
Currants, and Pinenuts
Risotto alla pilota with Sping Vegetables
Charcoal-Grilled spiedino of Beef Tongue Wrapped with pancetta
Pennette with polpettini of Hoffman Farm Hen
Linguine with crème fraiche
Dishes for Old balsamico
Avocado with Round Pond Olive Oil and Sea Salt
Monkfish Liver with Scallions and Sea Salt
Lobster, Shrimp, and Scallop Sausage with Fresh ceci Beans
Duck Liver panna cotta
Charcoal-Grilled Sika Venison with pancetta and Fried Spring Onions
Niman Ranch bistecca alla fiorentina with bianca di spagna Beans
and Spinach (for two)
Shaved Salad of Fresh Porcini Mushrooms, Fennel, Celery, and Parmesan
Boudin noir and blanc with Fried Potatoes (with Poached Farm Egg)
Braised Rabbit and Leeks in bianco with Bitter Olives
Tartares of Niman Ranch Beef and Watson Farm Lamb
Contorni
- Caramelized Endives - New Carrots - Spring Greens - Polenta integrale
Call 510-547-5356 for reservations.
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*Since 2000, Paul Canales has been Oliveto's Chef de Cuisine. (He'd started at Oliveto ten years ago as an intern from the Culinary Institute of America.) Last summer, he became Chef, as Paul Bertolli has increasingly focused on his new salumi business. The comments we hear most often from our customers in recent years is that our food keeps getting better and better. We believe this to be true, and we thank Chef Canales for his talent and his effort.
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