Peas are popping up vigorously this time of year, and its verdurous note has been resonating throughout our menu. This weekend, look for a delicate chamomile tagliatelle with English peas, lemon, Pecorino, and cured egg yolk. Also, our pan-roasted halibut with English peas, morel and Hen of the Woods mushrooms, ramps, and a green garlic spumante may just be the epitome of Spring, in all its rapture.
From black rice to red quinoa to golden Kamut berries, ancient grains are becoming ever more abundant and easy to procure. In Simply Ancient Grains, cooking with these fascinating and nourishing staples is made easy and accessible by veteran food writer and journalist Maria Speck. Maria’s first cookbook, Ancient Grains for Modern Meals, won multiple awards, among them the coveted Julia Child Award, and was named a top cookbook by both The New York Times and the Washington Post. Maria has also been featured in the upcoming documentary The Grain Divide, starring Dan Barber, Chad Robertson, and Michael Pollan among others.
Maria will be reading from her book and discussing the varied and intriguing world of ancient grains in the Siena Room. A book signing will follow.
Oliveto Restaurant & Café
Saturday, May 30, 2015 from 1:00 PM to 3:00 PM
In his latest book, Grain of Truth, investigative journalist and award-winning screenwriter Stephen Yafa gives us back our daily bread. At a time when gluten is being denounced as the new asbestos, he sets out to separate truth from fiction. He discovers scientific evidence that mass-production processing methods and monoculture are the culprit, not the inherent genetic make-up of wheat itself. But there’s much more to the story. Artisan whole wheat impresarios like Craig Ponsford form an expanding national movement made up of young, enthusiastic stone-ground millers, growers and renegade bakers who are re-introducing strains of wheat with distinct flavorful personalities and proven health benefits. Their baked goods are probiotic; they break down bulky gluten molecules, provide vital nutrition and fiber, and above all, they’re delicious. But don’t take our word for it. Craig will provide ample samples of the masterworks that he bakes at Ponsford’s Place in San Rafael and talk about why he converted from white to 100 percent whole wheat flour. In addition, Yafa lets us in on a discovery that may change your life — there is in fact a perfect solution for non-celiac gluten-sensitive bread lovers, after all.
Yafa will be discussing his book together with baker Craig Ponsford. Copies of the book will be available; a book signing and sample tasting will follow.
Oliveto Restaurant & Café
Saturday, June 6, 2015 from 1:00 PM to 3:00 PM
His vineyards are a simple, beautiful place on the eastern slope, where cool evenings and warm days make for a wine that far exceeds the standards of the island. Its soil is of young volcanic ash, crumbly and crystalline, and its eastern aspect allows the morning dew to dry from the grapes when the sun rises. His wines are spectacular. Over the last five years, Etna has emerged as one of the most important wine regions, and Ciro is one of its biggest players.
We love Ciro personally as well. He’s warm and passionate, both in winemaking and in life. We’re happy to have him for a tasting of his wines, and we’ll be having Sicilian dishes on the dinner menu that evening in his honor.
The wine tasting will consist of:
2014 Biondi ‘Outis’ Etna Bianco
2013 Biondi ‘Outis’ Etna Rosso
2011 ‘Cisterna Fuori’ Etna Rosso
2008 Biondi ‘Outis’ Etna Rosso
2007 Biondi ‘Monte Ilice’ Etna Rosso
$40 per person
Monday, June 15, 2015 from 6:15 PM to 7:00 PM
Oliveto Restaurant & Café
Learn to make the most of stone fruit season with Pastry Chef Yakira Batres and Cocktail Chef Daniel Clayton. Taste peaches, plums, and nectarines that have just come to ripeness, and learn which varieties make the most sense for your baking or boozy ambitions. We’ll assemble galettes, a quintessential use for peaches and plums; then, learn how to make liqueurs, syrups, shrubs and bitters with what’s left over. Includes a stone fruit galette and summer cocktail tasting.
July 12th, 12 pm to 3 pm
Our good fortune is your good fortune.
Our most recently acquired stash of French wines from the 80’s and 90’s has revealed a number of delights, and we’re eager to share them with you at our upcoming Provençal Dinners on May 19th and 20th.
We have a handful of wines to offer:
1979 Domaine Tempier, Bandol Rouge Cuvée, Mourvèdre, “Speciale La Migoua”
*1987 Domaine Tempier, Bandol Rouge Cuvée, Grenache-Syrah-Mourvedre, “Speciale La Louffe”
1988 Domaine Tempier, Bandol Rouge Cuvée, Mourvèdre, “Cabassaou”
1989 Domaine Tempier, Bandol Rouge Cuvée, Cinsault-Grenache-Mourvèdre, “La Tourtine”
*1989 Domaine Tempier, Bandol Rouge Cuvée, Mourvèdre, “Cabassaou”
All bottles are priced at $100, and those labeled with asterisks above are available by the glass ($20) and half glass ($10) as well. It should be an interesting event, as all of these have held up quite well over time, though there may be some uncustomary variation from bottle to bottle.
We hope to share these with you Tuesday and Wednesday for our prix-fixe menu from the classic Richard Olney cookbook, Lulu’s Provencal Table. Visit our website for details on this simple, delicious late spring menu.
For many a bébé boomer, Provence’s Domaine Tempier, and Lulu and Lucien Peyraud, opened a door to what food should be: full-flavored, true, beautiful, not fussy, seasonal, and full of life.
We were shown a way. Preparing for next week’s dinners and the release of our little treasure trove of old Tempier red Bandols, we’ve been going through a tasting of bottles from select vintages. It’s been an honor and an adventure.
We’ve tasted many extraordinary bottles and a few “interesting” ones-the lesser ones having aged, alas, for too long, or some in which Brett yeast cells have run amok. Unfortunately, there’s little accurate information on what to expect as each vintage ages-even from the experts at Kermit Lynch. We’re rather enjoying performing the task of looking into each to determine the effects of time. (We must keep in mind that bottles might even vary within each vintage, creating yet another problem in making them available to you.) But we know we will be offering many spectacular aged Tempier Bandols at good prices, along with some merely good ones. Yesterday, we opened a ’79 and last rites were performed; then, an ’87, and it blew us away, and today it is still very much alive, with interesting character.
Here’s what we are working with.
|1979||Mourvédre, “Speciale La Miguoa,” Domaine Tempier, Bandol Cuvée|
|1981||Mourvédre, “Speciale La Miguoa,” Domaine Tempier, Bandol Cuvée|
|1982||Bandol Cuvée Speciale, Domaine Tempier|
|1982||Cinsaut-Grenache-Mourvédre, “La Tourtine,” Domaine Tempier, Bandol Rouge Cuvée|
|1985||Mourvédre, “Speciale La Miguoa,” Domaine Tempier, Bandol Cuvée|
|1985||Cinsaut-Grenache-Mourvédre, “La Tourtine,” Domaine Tempier, Bandol Rouge Cuvée|
|1987||Mourvédre, “Cabassaou,” Domaine Tempier, Bandol Rouge Cuvée|
|1988||Grenache-Syrah-Mouvédre, “Speciale La Louffe,” Domaine Tempier, Bandol Cuvée|
|1988||Mourvédre, “Cabassaou,” Domaine Tempier, Bandol Rouge Cuvée|
|1989||Mourvédre, “Speciale La Miguoa,” Domaine Tempier, Bandol Cuvée|
|1989||Cinsaut-Grenache-Mourvédre, “La Tourtine,” Domaine Tempier, Bandol Rouge Cuvée|
|1989||Mourvédre, “Cabassaou,” Domaine Tempier, Bandol Rouge Cuvée|
|1999||Mourvédre, “Cabassaou,” Domaine Tempier, Bandol Rouge Cuvée|
View our special Provençal menus for May 19th and 20th here.
We’re in salumi production pretty much all year long, gearing up particularly for Whole Hog Dinners in February. But the meats don’t become perfect in a steady stream. Sometimes many are ready in a mild eruption — an embarrassment of riches between dry spells.
Cured meats are the very best way to taste the quality of the pig, and we have salumi from two very fine breeds. From Front Porch Farm, we have their Cinta: culatello, coppa, and pancetta, all from great whole muscles. Culatello is the small muscle at the rear of the leg and is considered the king of cured meats.
And, though Mac Magruder has stopped hog production, we have a variety of salumi from his amazing stock as well. They’ll be on the menu beginning Wednesday, and into the following week.