DINNERS WITH APICIUS:
FLAVORS FROM ANCIENT ROME
Thursday and Friday, January 15 and 16, 2008
De Re Coquinaria (On Cookery) is a compilation of recipes recorded by several epicureans (some named Apicius, a name associated with extreme love of food) who lived between 44 BC and 117 AD. The recipes were transcribed anonymously in the 4th century, and an "excerpt" was transcribed by Vinidarius in the 5th century. They are from the wealthy classes and create a window
into the foods, cooking methods, and ingredients of Rome during the reigns of the Caesars.
Because trade was flourishing during that period, and the Roman Empire extended so far, the Romans had access to India, China, Arabia, and the West for ingredients and cooking methods. Some of the recipes can be traced to ancient Greece, Egypt, and the Orient.
Chef Paul Canales' fascination with Apicius and Roman cookery began 14 years ago when he first immersed himself in Italian food, including its history. "It was here that I first learned of lovage, garum/liquimen, verjus, and the Romans' extensive use of Eastern spices. I was struck by the importance not only of cinnamon, ginger, cardamom, nutmeg, and cloves, but also of black pepper! It seems that black pepper was the most important and most prized of all the spices, something we take completely for granted."
For his dinners, Chef Canales will use the 1984 translation of Apicius by John Edwards, and has consulted with Sally Grainger, who co-wrote a critical edition of Apicius and has done extensive research on garum/liquimen and reproduced the sauces from historical documents.
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