TOMATO DINNERS
Wednesday through Saturday
August 23 - 26, 2006
 Once again the weather for the first half of the year has been unusual, with a false
spring in February, late heavy rains, cool weather in June and early July, then a
severe heat wave later in the month. Because of the ensuing delays in harvests, we are
only now getting to know and understand this season’s tomatoes, and are preparing to be
further astonished as the days progress. The first tomatoes from our local farms were
‘Early Girls’ and beautifully balanced cherries, and we began getting heirloom varieties a
few weeks ago.
Here are a few highlights: We’re getting dry-farmed ‘Early Girls’ from our friend Joe
at Dirty Girl Farm in Santa Cruz. They’re stellar, as usual, with an added bonus. Joe is
culling “off-market” fruit and selling them at discount, which allows us to use these usually
costly tomatoes in sauces and a conserva. Terra Firma Farm is having a very strong
year. Their cherry tomatoes have been superb, and their heirlooms have a particularly
concentrated flavor as the cooler weather (except for that crazy heat wave) allows for less
frequent watering. Tip Top Farm, near Vacaville, is having a great year and will send
their spectacular ‘Flammé’ (a deep orange tomato reminiscent of apricots) and ‘Black
Cherries.’ Catalan Farm in Hollister is having a mixed year. They’ll offer ‘Romas’ and
beefsteaks that are as good as ever, but last year’s surprise standout, ‘Pink Florida,’ is just
not making it this year.
Menus for Tomato Dinners (like those for Oceanic Dinners) must always be planned
last minute, but this year’s weird season will make them even more spontaneous, just as
life should be.
New items on the menu will include:
'Black Plum' Tomatoes with Smoked Swordfish and Mint;
Earthenware-Braised Jones Farm Rabbit, Dry-Farmed
'Early Girl' Tomatoes, and Olives;
Deep-Fried Paine Farm Pigeon with
Cherry Tomato Preserve;
Green Tomato and Apple Fritters.
Reprised menu favorites will be:
Panzarotti: Fried Tomato, mozzarella di bufala, and
Basil Turnovers;
Sicilian ravioli of Tomato conserva, Oliveto ricotta,
Pine Nuts, and Marjoram;
Red Charcoal-Grilled Lamb and Tomato Sausages
with Fresh Shelling Beans;
Tomato, Cornmeal, and Rosemary Upside-Down Cake.
We’ll know more the day before the event!
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